Friday, September 5, 2014

WAGG Day 2 - Goes 4-6

This is the first of many Whiskey a Go-Go projecting updates. I am going to use these as a journal, mainly to help me with the process, but maybe putting my process will be useful to some, or draw some constructive thoughts. To signify these posts (because some will find them boring), I will start them all with WAGG. These posts will include my beta as it evolves, so if you do not want it; do not read them.

9/5/14 (weight 175.4, AMRHR 40)

Today was my second day (4th, 5th and 6th goes) on Whiskey, it went well and I made some progress. I have the bottom (the 5.10 part) wired, and figured out all of the moves to the soap dish. Key beta:

  • From left hand pinch bump right hand to good right hand side-pull (the "pockety" one)
  • Layback hard up to left-hand side-pulls, the upper part is better
  • Back-step left foot
  • Bump right hand to the highest right side-pull
  • Left foot to micro-edge on the right side of the right crack
  • Layback hard again to left-hand pocket/edge (train middle/index combo)
  • Establish feet and dead-point to good right side-pull
  • Left hand to soap dish
  • Perch high on right foot
  • Gaston garbage right hand (train middle/index combo)
From here the moves look, if not probable, at least possible.

Training thoughts:
  • Work middle/index pockets on the hangboard
  • Use hyper-gravity on bad slopers and medium or small edges
  • Arm strength and general endurance are not huge problems, but forearm power endurance needs work
  • Moves to the soap dish and gaston can be simulated on the home wall
Today was a fun day, and while last time I was psyched on the climbing alone, today I actually think this thing could go. I have a lot of work to do, but the moves are looking possible, not plausible yet, just possible. The sunset was amazing, and the alpenglow painted the wall tonight - simply amazing - so psyched for another day Sunday!

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