Monday, September 28, 2015

WAGG Day 17 - Goes 47-49


Jay and I went right back to Necedah after Friday's attempts. We had a huge crew there, and we got a lot of climbing done, although most of mine was done on Whiskey. I took a total of three goes this time, and they were very encouraging. The first was a TR go that took me to my highest point yet from the ground, falling only 2-3 moves from the top - I was psyched. A while later I decided to give it a shot on lead, and went bolt-to-bolt after the first 2-3 bolts. The third and final go of the day was another TR go, and I made it within a move or two of the top, bettering my earlier go. It was heartbreakingly close, but it would have to wait. I tweaked my left pinky a bit on this last go, and I plan on taking a break from Whiskey for a couple weeks - hopefully I don't lose too much.

Friday, September 18, 2015

WAGG Day 16 - Goes 45-46


Jay is back in town for a bit and we snuck up to Necedah for the evening. I took a couple TR goes on Whiskey. The first one of the night I climbed through the crux to a new high point from the ground. My core felt solid in the crux, so the shift in training regimen is paying off. I used the rest of that go and almost all of the next to try some new beta between bolts four and five. The beta I've been using is a little scary on lead because my feet were getting all jacked in the rope above bolt four. The potential new beta is promising, but it needs to have the kinks worked out.

Monday, September 14, 2015

WAGG Day 15 - Goes 42-44


It has been more than three months since the last time I was on Whiskey. I spent the summerr away because humidity sucks for hard rock climbing, and I was doing so much cardio getting ready for the Tetons. It was good to get back on the route last Sunday, I took three real goes on the thing, all on TR. I managed to one hang it on TR again, so at least I haven't lost anything since June.

The route felt good, but my core gave out in the crux, my arms and fingers felt solid, so its core focus on the training plan from here out.

Wednesday, September 9, 2015

Psyched again...finally!

It has been about 3.5 weeks since I returned from Wyoming, and the trip must have taken more out of me then I thought. I haven't been able to get into the habit of training and I've only gone climbing a few times. I've been slowly trying to get myself back in the groove, but it's tough. I've been catching up on work and family obligations and there is only so much energy to go around.

Last night I made the drive down to Madison to meet with some friends to watch Meru and while I was there I made plans to go to Necedah this weekend and get back on Whiskey. Some combination and the re-aligning of my sight on an old goal was just the right recipe to get me back in the mood to train. Since I returned from Wyoming, I've been training but it felt forced. Last night I was psyched driving home and almost went out to the shed at eleven o'clock when I got home, but decided to wait. This morning I did a quick session of deadlift/campus intervals...I was psyched and it felt good!

By the time I get to Whiskey on Sunday, it will have been over three months since I was there last. I think I've given the route 43 tries on fifteen different days since last August. I don't know when or if the route will go for me, but I know now that the weather is improving and autumn is here, that it's time to try again...hard.