Monday, September 11, 2017

WAGG Day 25 - Goes 71-72

9/10/2017 AM Weight 188.4 AMRHR 67

It's been a long time since my last attempts on WAGG. My first go wasn't great as I tried to remember my way. The second was a little better, I climbed right through to the crux. I'm definitely not as fit as I was a 11 months ago. It's coming back, but the process is slow. The route is just as amazing as ever - though the "silver-dollar" foothold below the "mail slot" has broken at some point in the last 11 months. I'm not sure it makes a difference in the overall difficulty of the route, just a mildly different sequence.

Sunday, October 23, 2016

WAGG Day 24 - Goes 69-70

Two more goes today. The first one was feeling really good, but my mind got in front of my body, and I was looking for holds that I was two moves away from getting to. The second go was much better, I climbed through the "crux" and ran out of gas a move-or-two later. Then I got right back on and climbed it to the top - it was a quick one-hang on TR, not my best go ever, but a damn good one. Can't wait to get back.

Friday, October 14, 2016

WAGG Day 23 - Goes 66-68

October 14th, 2016

A quick evening session, 3 goes total. Did all of the moves on each of the goes. Feeling the fitness return...slowly. It's hard to communicate just how good this line is. I mean, it's solidly 3 letter grades harder than anything I've ever climbed, even on a top rope, but it keeps me coming back for more. Sometimes I wonder if I'm wasting time on the thing, and should be building a bigger pyramid. Then I get on it, and the climbing is so good that I can't help but come back for another ass-kicking. Do yourself a favor, no matter what grade you're climbing and get on this thing - it's nothing short of amazing.

Monday, October 10, 2016

WAGG Day 22 - Goes 63-65

October 9th, 2016

It's been 5 months since my last go on Whiskey, and it felt go to take three goes on the thing. Also, a summer of poor conditions (maybe better stated as low-motivation) brought me to the table a little weaker than the last time. Still, I took three goes, and did all of the moves at least twice. This thing is hard, but amazing. I need to climb/train more, and I feel like I'm over a little period of burnout.

Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Tuesday Trifle

So I went up to the Monolith Bouldering Area at DL to start to sort some things out on MP because it was an unsorted mess. I ended up splitting what used to be titled Monolith Rocks into two areas East and West. While I was up there I ended up finding a bunch of problems that weren't on the site already - although I'm sure at least some of them have been done in the past.

So I added the following to the site:
Awkward Mushroom (V1)
Deep Doodoo Left (V0)
Deep Doodoo Right (V0)
Just Another Sick Old New Rig Left (V1)
Just Another Sick Old New Rig Right (V1)

The Just Another Sick Old New Rig problems might be new, might not, ultimately who cares? They're short fun and meaningless. I did shoot some video of them though:

Enjoy them if you get there!

Sunday, May 8, 2016

WAGG Day 21 - Goes 59-62

May 7, 2016

It's been almost six months since I last gave Whiskey a try. A lot of things have kept me from it in that time, but it was good to be back. I have been training a lot for an upcoming mountaineering trip and NOT focussing on rock climbing strength. So, I was pleasantly surprised on my first go when I fell only a move below my best go to-date. Subsequent goes were less impressive, and my lack of training shined through. My big takeaways from the day are:

  1. Whiskey a Go-Go is still amazing
  2. I haven't lost as much strength as I thought, but I have lost some endurance
  3. I am psyched to spend the summer and fall solely focussed on hard rock climbing and even bouldering (yes I said it).

Monday, May 2, 2016

The Socratic Method

Back in early April, I stumbled upon this:
It's tucked away in the hinterlands of Sauk County, and the access situation is complicated, so I'm not into posting it here for all the world to see. However, if you're reading, get in contact with me and I'll share its location and how to get good access. I called it The Socratic Method (WI2) - there's a hint to its location in the name if you care.

Sunday, December 20, 2015

A Pitch or a Problem per Day - Psyched!

From my Mountain Project Profile

Sure it's loosely defined, but I'm pretty psyched that I'm over 365 for the year. Since I only tick "sends" the actual number is much higher. Leading Congrats with Matthew was the lucky number 365 for the year, and there are still 9 days left!

Sunday, November 8, 2015

WAGG Day 20 - Goes 55-58

Well, this week was certainly better than last week. Aside from having a big day on the route (4 goes) I figured out some micro-beta that will help me further down the line.

On the first go, I was feeling pretty strong, but as I was reaching to the crux the rope obstructed the first side pull - the TR is starting to hold me back I think.

On later gos, I learned how important a finger's width is on the soapdish. Sometimes the move off the Gaston feels solid, and sometimes it feels questionable. The key is to move the hand one finger to the right(?) from what feels natural.

Such a good route!

Sunday, November 1, 2015

WAGG Day 19 - Goes 52-54

In preparation for writing this entry, I took a look at the last two WAGG reports. I've been stagnating lately. This stagnation is the result of obvious reasons (excuses) which makes it somewhat tolerable and justified, but still frustrating and disheartening. Most of October I was either sick, or busy, or both. This meant only one night of action on Whiskey early in the month, and not much training to make up for the lack of physical presence. I spent the first day of November at Necedah, and took three goes on Whiskey. I think all of those goes were either two or three hang efforts on TR - not exactly progress, but hopefully the kick in the ass that I needed to spur me to better effort. I'll be back next Sunday and hopefully will see some improvement.