Monday, October 10, 2016

WAGG Day 22 - Goes Goes 63-65

October 9th, 2016

It's been 5 months since my last go on Whiskey, and it felt go to take three goes on the thing. Also, a summer of poor conditions (maybe better stated as low-motivation) brought me to the table a little weaker than the last time. Still, I took three goes, and did all of the moves at least twice. This thing is hard, but amazing. I need to climb/train more, and I feel like I'm over a little period of burnout.

Wednesday, May 18, 2016

Tuesday Trifle

So I went up to the Monolith Bouldering Area at DL to start to sort some things out on MP because it was an unsorted mess. I ended up splitting what used to be titled Monolith Rocks into two areas East and West. While I was up there I ended up finding a bunch of problems that weren't on the site already - although I'm sure at least some of them have been done in the past.

So I added the following to the site:
Awkward Mushroom (V1)
Deep Doodoo Left (V0)
Deep Doodoo Right (V0)
Just Another Sick Old New Rig Left (V1)
Just Another Sick Old New Rig Right (V1)

The Just Another Sick Old New Rig problems might be new, might not, ultimately who cares? They're short fun and meaningless. I did shoot some video of them though:

Enjoy them if you get there!

Sunday, May 8, 2016

WAGG Day 21 - Goes 59-62

May 7, 2016

It's been almost six months since I last gave Whiskey a try. A lot of things have kept me from it in that time, but it was good to be back. I have been training a lot for an upcoming mountaineering trip and NOT focussing on rock climbing strength. So, I was pleasantly surprised on my first go when I fell only a move below my best go to-date. Subsequent goes were less impressive, and my lack of training shined through. My big takeaways from the day are:

  1. Whiskey a Go-Go is still amazing
  2. I haven't lost as much strength as I thought, but I have lost some endurance
  3. I am psyched to spend the summer and fall solely focussed on hard rock climbing and even bouldering (yes I said it).

Monday, May 2, 2016

The Socratic Method

Back in early April, I stumbled upon this:
It's tucked away in the hinterlands of Sauk County, and the access situation is complicated, so I'm not into posting it here for all the world to see. However, if you're reading, get in contact with me and I'll share its location and how to get good access. I called it The Socratic Method (WI2) - there's a hint to its location in the name if you care.

Sunday, December 20, 2015

A Pitch or a Problem per Day - Psyched!

From my Mountain Project Profile

Sure it's loosely defined, but I'm pretty psyched that I'm over 365 for the year. Since I only tick "sends" the actual number is much higher. Leading Congrats with Matthew was the lucky number 365 for the year, and there are still 9 days left!

Sunday, November 8, 2015

WAGG Day 20 - Goes 55-58

Well, this week was certainly better than last week. Aside from having a big day on the route (4 goes) I figured out some micro-beta that will help me further down the line.

On the first go, I was feeling pretty strong, but as I was reaching to the crux the rope obstructed the first side pull - the TR is starting to hold me back I think.

On later gos, I learned how important a finger's width is on the soapdish. Sometimes the move off the Gaston feels solid, and sometimes it feels questionable. The key is to move the hand one finger to the right(?) from what feels natural.

Such a good route!

Sunday, November 1, 2015

WAGG Day 19 - Goes 52-54

In preparation for writing this entry, I took a look at the last two WAGG reports. I've been stagnating lately. This stagnation is the result of obvious reasons (excuses) which makes it somewhat tolerable and justified, but still frustrating and disheartening. Most of October I was either sick, or busy, or both. This meant only one night of action on Whiskey early in the month, and not much training to make up for the lack of physical presence. I spent the first day of November at Necedah, and took three goes on Whiskey. I think all of those goes were either two or three hang efforts on TR - not exactly progress, but hopefully the kick in the ass that I needed to spur me to better effort. I'll be back next Sunday and hopefully will see some improvement.

Sunday, October 25, 2015

Advice I'm Glad I Took (and wish I would have taken more of)

Regular readers know that I'm a middle-aged husband of one and father of two. My wife and boys are the most important things to me in the world. Because they're important I have real job that provides a steady income, but only gives me three-weeks of vacation (I'm lucky at that!) per year. Honestly, I would love to spend that time almost entirely on climbing trips, but alas, I get about twelve weekdays per year to go on climbing trips - not a lot. I was just flipping through the forums over on Mountain Project. I noticed one for Ride Offered- Boulder to the Valley Leaving 9/6, and when I saw it, I felt a nostalgic little tug at my heart.

I was lucky enough to live in "The Valley" for two falls when I was a still a college kid. All-told, my ticklist from that time is rather unimpressive. Though I did have a blast, make and cement lifelong friendships and learned more about myself by sleeping in the dirt than I could have ever imagined. The climbing was amazing, and I truly became a much better climber during my time there, but the climbing exists almost as a footnote when viewed from a dozen-plus years later. After I returned from my second excursion, my full-time adult career started - climbing, and adventuring in general, took a necessary sideline.

So, onto that advice. If you're young, and you can, do it now. "It" might be climbing in the Valley, backpacking across Europe, paddling the Inside name it. Do it on the cheap, but do it now. Adulthood has a way of popping up quickly and once it does; it is usually here to stay.

If you wait for the perfect time; you will never go. Don't ask yourself "Why now?" but instead ask yourself "Why not now?" and "If not now; when?"

Go and cast yourself into a great adventure - its lesson and memories will soothe your future.

Thursday, October 8, 2015

WAGG Day 18 - Goes 50-51


Negative progress. I met Seth up at Necedah after work last Friday. I took a pair of goes on Whiskey, but neither was very impressive. I was lazy the entire week before and can't say I deserved much more than I got. Anyway, I'll be psyched to get back up there and give it another go (or three) soon.

Monday, September 28, 2015

WAGG Day 17 - Goes 47-49


Jay and I went right back to Necedah after Friday's attempts. We had a huge crew there, and we got a lot of climbing done, although most of mine was done on Whiskey. I took a total of three goes this time, and they were very encouraging. The first was a TR go that took me to my highest point yet from the ground, falling only 2-3 moves from the top - I was psyched. A while later I decided to give it a shot on lead, and went bolt-to-bolt after the first 2-3 bolts. The third and final go of the day was another TR go, and I made it within a move or two of the top, bettering my earlier go. It was heartbreakingly close, but it would have to wait. I tweaked my left pinky a bit on this last go, and I plan on taking a break from Whiskey for a couple weeks - hopefully I don't lose too much.