9/24/17 AM Weight 186.8 AMRHR 57
Really only 2.5 goes, did all the moves on the first one, bailed halfway up on the second one, and two-hung on the third. All on TR.
Showing posts with label WAGG. Show all posts
Showing posts with label WAGG. Show all posts
Sunday, September 24, 2017
Sunday, October 23, 2016
WAGG Day 24 - Goes 69-70
Two more goes today. The first one was feeling really good, but my mind got in front of my body, and I was looking for holds that I was two moves away from getting to. The second go was much better, I climbed through the "crux" and ran out of gas a move-or-two later. Then I got right back on and climbed it to the top - it was a quick one-hang on TR, not my best go ever, but a damn good one. Can't wait to get back.
Friday, October 14, 2016
WAGG Day 23 - Goes 66-68
October 14th, 2016
A quick evening session, 3 goes total. Did all of the moves on each of the goes. Feeling the fitness return...slowly. It's hard to communicate just how good this line is. I mean, it's solidly 3 letter grades harder than anything I've ever climbed, even on a top rope, but it keeps me coming back for more. Sometimes I wonder if I'm wasting time on the thing, and should be building a bigger pyramid. Then I get on it, and the climbing is so good that I can't help but come back for another ass-kicking. Do yourself a favor, no matter what grade you're climbing and get on this thing - it's nothing short of amazing.
A quick evening session, 3 goes total. Did all of the moves on each of the goes. Feeling the fitness return...slowly. It's hard to communicate just how good this line is. I mean, it's solidly 3 letter grades harder than anything I've ever climbed, even on a top rope, but it keeps me coming back for more. Sometimes I wonder if I'm wasting time on the thing, and should be building a bigger pyramid. Then I get on it, and the climbing is so good that I can't help but come back for another ass-kicking. Do yourself a favor, no matter what grade you're climbing and get on this thing - it's nothing short of amazing.
Monday, October 10, 2016
WAGG Day 22 - Goes 63-65
October 9th, 2016
It's been 5 months since my last go on Whiskey, and it felt go to take three goes on the thing. Also, a summer of poor conditions (maybe better stated as low-motivation) brought me to the table a little weaker than the last time. Still, I took three goes, and did all of the moves at least twice. This thing is hard, but amazing. I need to climb/train more, and I feel like I'm over a little period of burnout.
It's been 5 months since my last go on Whiskey, and it felt go to take three goes on the thing. Also, a summer of poor conditions (maybe better stated as low-motivation) brought me to the table a little weaker than the last time. Still, I took three goes, and did all of the moves at least twice. This thing is hard, but amazing. I need to climb/train more, and I feel like I'm over a little period of burnout.
Sunday, May 8, 2016
WAGG Day 21 - Goes 59-62
May 7, 2016
It's been almost six months since I last gave Whiskey a try. A lot of things have kept me from it in that time, but it was good to be back. I have been training a lot for an upcoming mountaineering trip and NOT focussing on rock climbing strength. So, I was pleasantly surprised on my first go when I fell only a move below my best go to-date. Subsequent goes were less impressive, and my lack of training shined through. My big takeaways from the day are:
It's been almost six months since I last gave Whiskey a try. A lot of things have kept me from it in that time, but it was good to be back. I have been training a lot for an upcoming mountaineering trip and NOT focussing on rock climbing strength. So, I was pleasantly surprised on my first go when I fell only a move below my best go to-date. Subsequent goes were less impressive, and my lack of training shined through. My big takeaways from the day are:
- Whiskey a Go-Go is still amazing
- I haven't lost as much strength as I thought, but I have lost some endurance
- I am psyched to spend the summer and fall solely focussed on hard rock climbing and even bouldering (yes I said it).
Sunday, November 8, 2015
WAGG Day 20 - Goes 55-58
Well, this week was certainly better than last week. Aside from having a big day on the route (4 goes) I figured out some micro-beta that will help me further down the line.
On the first go, I was feeling pretty strong, but as I was reaching to the crux the rope obstructed the first side pull - the TR is starting to hold me back I think.
On later gos, I learned how important a finger's width is on the soapdish. Sometimes the move off the Gaston feels solid, and sometimes it feels questionable. The key is to move the hand one finger to the right(?) from what feels natural.
Such a good route!
On the first go, I was feeling pretty strong, but as I was reaching to the crux the rope obstructed the first side pull - the TR is starting to hold me back I think.
On later gos, I learned how important a finger's width is on the soapdish. Sometimes the move off the Gaston feels solid, and sometimes it feels questionable. The key is to move the hand one finger to the right(?) from what feels natural.
Such a good route!
Sunday, November 1, 2015
WAGG Day 19 - Goes 52-54
In preparation for writing this entry, I took a look at the last two WAGG reports. I've been stagnating lately. This stagnation is the result of obvious reasons (excuses) which makes it somewhat tolerable and justified, but still frustrating and disheartening. Most of October I was either sick, or busy, or both. This meant only one night of action on Whiskey early in the month, and not much training to make up for the lack of physical presence. I spent the first day of November at Necedah, and took three goes on Whiskey. I think all of those goes were either two or three hang efforts on TR - not exactly progress, but hopefully the kick in the ass that I needed to spur me to better effort. I'll be back next Sunday and hopefully will see some improvement.
Thursday, October 8, 2015
WAGG Day 18 - Goes 50-51
10/02/15
Negative progress. I met Seth up at Necedah after work last Friday. I took a pair of goes on Whiskey, but neither was very impressive. I was lazy the entire week before and can't say I deserved much more than I got. Anyway, I'll be psyched to get back up there and give it another go (or three) soon.
Negative progress. I met Seth up at Necedah after work last Friday. I took a pair of goes on Whiskey, but neither was very impressive. I was lazy the entire week before and can't say I deserved much more than I got. Anyway, I'll be psyched to get back up there and give it another go (or three) soon.
Monday, September 28, 2015
WAGG Day 17 - Goes 47-49
9/20/15
Jay and I went right back to Necedah after Friday's attempts. We had a huge crew there, and we got a lot of climbing done, although most of mine was done on Whiskey. I took a total of three goes this time, and they were very encouraging. The first was a TR go that took me to my highest point yet from the ground, falling only 2-3 moves from the top - I was psyched. A while later I decided to give it a shot on lead, and went bolt-to-bolt after the first 2-3 bolts. The third and final go of the day was another TR go, and I made it within a move or two of the top, bettering my earlier go. It was heartbreakingly close, but it would have to wait. I tweaked my left pinky a bit on this last go, and I plan on taking a break from Whiskey for a couple weeks - hopefully I don't lose too much.
Jay and I went right back to Necedah after Friday's attempts. We had a huge crew there, and we got a lot of climbing done, although most of mine was done on Whiskey. I took a total of three goes this time, and they were very encouraging. The first was a TR go that took me to my highest point yet from the ground, falling only 2-3 moves from the top - I was psyched. A while later I decided to give it a shot on lead, and went bolt-to-bolt after the first 2-3 bolts. The third and final go of the day was another TR go, and I made it within a move or two of the top, bettering my earlier go. It was heartbreakingly close, but it would have to wait. I tweaked my left pinky a bit on this last go, and I plan on taking a break from Whiskey for a couple weeks - hopefully I don't lose too much.
Friday, September 18, 2015
WAGG Day 16 - Goes 45-46
9/18/15
Monday, September 14, 2015
WAGG Day 15 - Goes 42-44
09/13/15
It has been more than three months since the last time I was on Whiskey. I spent the summerr away because humidity sucks for hard rock climbing, and I was doing so much cardio getting ready for the Tetons. It was good to get back on the route last Sunday, I took three real goes on the thing, all on TR. I managed to one hang it on TR again, so at least I haven't lost anything since June.
It has been more than three months since the last time I was on Whiskey. I spent the summerr away because humidity sucks for hard rock climbing, and I was doing so much cardio getting ready for the Tetons. It was good to get back on the route last Sunday, I took three real goes on the thing, all on TR. I managed to one hang it on TR again, so at least I haven't lost anything since June.
The route felt good, but my core gave out in the crux, my arms and fingers felt solid, so its core focus on the training plan from here out.
Wednesday, September 9, 2015
Psyched again...finally!
It has been about 3.5 weeks since I returned from Wyoming, and the trip must have taken more out of me then I thought. I haven't been able to get into the habit of training and I've only gone climbing a few times. I've been slowly trying to get myself back in the groove, but it's tough. I've been catching up on work and family obligations and there is only so much energy to go around.
Last night I made the drive down to Madison to meet with some friends to watch Meru and while I was there I made plans to go to Necedah this weekend and get back on Whiskey. Some combination and the re-aligning of my sight on an old goal was just the right recipe to get me back in the mood to train. Since I returned from Wyoming, I've been training but it felt forced. Last night I was psyched driving home and almost went out to the shed at eleven o'clock when I got home, but decided to wait. This morning I did a quick session of deadlift/campus intervals...I was psyched and it felt good!
By the time I get to Whiskey on Sunday, it will have been over three months since I was there last. I think I've given the route 43 tries on fifteen different days since last August. I don't know when or if the route will go for me, but I know now that the weather is improving and autumn is here, that it's time to try again...hard.
Thursday, June 11, 2015
WAGG Day 14 - Goes 40-41
06/10/15
It's been three weeks since the last time I was up at Necedah, and truth be told, I had pretty much written Whiskey off until the fall when conditions came back around. But when Charles texted me last Saturday to see if I'd meet him up there last night, I couldn't miss the opportunity. A couple days later Nate texted to see if I wanted to meet up and I told him to join Charles and me.
It's been three weeks since the last time I was up at Necedah, and truth be told, I had pretty much written Whiskey off until the fall when conditions came back around. But when Charles texted me last Saturday to see if I'd meet him up there last night, I couldn't miss the opportunity. A couple days later Nate texted to see if I wanted to meet up and I told him to join Charles and me.
Monday, May 18, 2015
Wednesday, May 13, 2015
WAGG Day 12 - Goes 35-36
05/13/15 (weight 180, AMRHR 56)
I snuck up to Necedah for an abbreviated session on Whiskey on Wednesday evening. I took a lead go and a TR go. The lead go was bolt-to-bolt, I was psyched about this, because at least I was able to commit to the heady jackness between bolts four and five. The TR go was decent too, my second two-hang of the route on TR.
At this point, I think wiring the bottom (up to the big pinch) and top (above the mail-slot) are on the docket. The climbing in both of the sections isn't particularly hard compared to the rest of the route, but both sections need to be climbed efficiently to allow for the fight in the middle.
I snuck up to Necedah for an abbreviated session on Whiskey on Wednesday evening. I took a lead go and a TR go. The lead go was bolt-to-bolt, I was psyched about this, because at least I was able to commit to the heady jackness between bolts four and five. The TR go was decent too, my second two-hang of the route on TR.
At this point, I think wiring the bottom (up to the big pinch) and top (above the mail-slot) are on the docket. The climbing in both of the sections isn't particularly hard compared to the rest of the route, but both sections need to be climbed efficiently to allow for the fight in the middle.
Tuesday, May 5, 2015
WAGG Day 11 - Goes 31-34
05/02/15 (weight 179.2, AMRHR 56)
After last Friday's encouraging progress, I couldn't wait to get back up to Necedah for another go (or four) at Whiskey.
After three lead goes and a TR go at the end of the day, I wasn't able to match my effort from last Friday, but I was pretty happy with my ability to make the first few clips repeatedly on the lead goes. On lead the route will break down into the following three cruxes for me:
After last Friday's encouraging progress, I couldn't wait to get back up to Necedah for another go (or four) at Whiskey.
After three lead goes and a TR go at the end of the day, I wasn't able to match my effort from last Friday, but I was pretty happy with my ability to make the first few clips repeatedly on the lead goes. On lead the route will break down into the following three cruxes for me:
Sunday, April 26, 2015
WAGG Day 10 - Go 30
04/24/15 (weight 179.2, AMRHR 44)
I drove up to Necedah on Friday after work to meet Charles and take a few quick burns on WAGG. To warm up, Charles led Tower Route while hanging draws, we pulled the rope, and then I led it with the draws in place. Then we hurried to the top of Y-Crack Wall and set a top rope on WAGG. Charles rapelled the line and I followed hanging draws and cleaning holds.
Conditions started to deteriorate almost as soon as Charles tied in for his first go, and they weren't any better by the time it got to be my turn. So, in a full rain, I tied in for a go of my own (the route overhangs 10-12 feet, but the wind was blowing mightily) and found (mostly) dry holds up to and through the crux. For the first time ever, I climbed from the ground through the crux and fell a few moves above. I ended up two-hanging the route on TR, and doubt I would have sent if conditions were better, but I might have been able to one-hang it instead. I topped out in a full rain, cleaned the TR setup and rapelled to the ground. It was the happiest I had ever been in the face of failure and bad conditions. I was, and still am, incredibly psyched. Up until Friday, I was feeling like I had lost some ground over the winter, so the huge progress I made was exceedingly welcomed.
I cannot wait to get back to Necedah again. While a lead of the route is probably still a ways off, it feels like a real possibility. From here on out, I hope to leave the TR behind and make each go a lead go.
I drove up to Necedah on Friday after work to meet Charles and take a few quick burns on WAGG. To warm up, Charles led Tower Route while hanging draws, we pulled the rope, and then I led it with the draws in place. Then we hurried to the top of Y-Crack Wall and set a top rope on WAGG. Charles rapelled the line and I followed hanging draws and cleaning holds.
Conditions started to deteriorate almost as soon as Charles tied in for his first go, and they weren't any better by the time it got to be my turn. So, in a full rain, I tied in for a go of my own (the route overhangs 10-12 feet, but the wind was blowing mightily) and found (mostly) dry holds up to and through the crux. For the first time ever, I climbed from the ground through the crux and fell a few moves above. I ended up two-hanging the route on TR, and doubt I would have sent if conditions were better, but I might have been able to one-hang it instead. I topped out in a full rain, cleaned the TR setup and rapelled to the ground. It was the happiest I had ever been in the face of failure and bad conditions. I was, and still am, incredibly psyched. Up until Friday, I was feeling like I had lost some ground over the winter, so the huge progress I made was exceedingly welcomed.
I cannot wait to get back to Necedah again. While a lead of the route is probably still a ways off, it feels like a real possibility. From here on out, I hope to leave the TR behind and make each go a lead go.
Monday, April 20, 2015
WAGG Day 9 - Goes 28-29
04/18/15 (weight 178.6, AMRHR 60)
I managed to get up to Necedah for a pair of goes on Whiskey over the weekend. Nothing special, I feel like I am stagnating on it a bit and need to change the training strategy around. It feels like I need more core, more forearm endurance and more general power endurance work away from the cliff. It also feels like I need to make a more reasonable pyramid up to the route, and climb some stuff a few grades easier. Maybe it was just a high-gravity day and I need to reengage...regardless, it felt a little stale on Saturday.
I managed to get up to Necedah for a pair of goes on Whiskey over the weekend. Nothing special, I feel like I am stagnating on it a bit and need to change the training strategy around. It feels like I need more core, more forearm endurance and more general power endurance work away from the cliff. It also feels like I need to make a more reasonable pyramid up to the route, and climb some stuff a few grades easier. Maybe it was just a high-gravity day and I need to reengage...regardless, it felt a little stale on Saturday.
Monday, March 23, 2015
WAGG Day 8 - Goes 25-27
Jay was in town last weekend and he coaxed me into a day at Necedah (the coaxing did not take a large effort on his part). I was psyched, but tentative about getting on Whiskey after a long hiatus over the winter. I had been training, but not enough, and did not want to feel like I had gone totally backwards on the thing. I decided to put a top rope on the route and see how things went. I took my time rapping down the route; cleaning holds, hanging draws and trying to remember all of the route's intricacies along the way. As I descended familiar holds triggered faint memories of the movements that would link them, my muscles twitched in anticipation and my mind slipped easily from its chaotic wanderings into a calm and focussed state. I have completed each of the movements to link all of those familiar holds. Taken as individuals, or even as pairs none of them is too difficult, but stacked, one-after-the-other, for fifty unrelenting feet, with virtually no chance of rest - well, one comes to understand how a candle can melt without ever having its wick set aflame.
Sunday, November 9, 2014
WAGG Day 7 - Goes 22-24
I have been nursing a sore shoulder for a few weeks now, and I have not been resting it like I should. Today looked like it might be the last good rock climbing day for the year, so I had been planning all week to come up for the day. I had a good session on the hangboard on Thursday night, and planned on resting all day on Friday and Saturday to give the route one more solid effort before the season slipped away. Friday morning my dad called and asked me to help load a load of Christmas Trees at the family Christmas Tree Farm on Saturday...so much for resting. Sunday dawned, I was tired and sore, but I pointed the car north anyway and headed for one of the best routes in Wisconsin, if not the country.
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