Another rad day on Whiskey!
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| Sending weather? |
I took four solid goes on Whiskey yesterday and I am really starting to feel like I am making progress. Of course the weather helped, as did the recent re-introduction of some cardio into the training plan. There was also a pretty good crew there yesterday - I think at least six or seven different people gave the route a shot. Seeing other people's beta, and having the extra psych around was a benefit too.
On my first go I climbed straight to the crux, and fell off reaching for the crack from the Gaston. It took me three tries to get the crux, I need to grab the right, slightly more positive side of the soapdish in order to lock-off and pull the move. From there I fell a few more times trying to piece it all together.
On my second go, I three-hung the route, at the crux, the mail slot, and the crimps above. I need to focus on the route above the crux on my next visit to the crag. It's still hard climbing and inobvious, so I'd like to have a solid, dependable sequence wired in case I ever manage to pull through the crux from below. I'd hate to get through it and think "ok, now what?" to myself.
The third go was negative progress, but it's where I actually figure out that I need to get right on the soapdish. I did a lot of flailing, but I was getting stronger.
Go number four could hardly be called a go, I climbed up to the crux, fell off and hauled rope in order to clean. I was hurting at the end. Successive goes and the cold took a lot out of me.
Matthew took a burn too, here are some pics:
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