By the time we arrived Matthew was already racking up to lead The Horse (5.4) and planned to setup a TR on it. The rest of us spent a few moments catching our breath (some of us more than others) before heading to the top to drop TRs on essentially every available route. I dropped a line on Plethora (5.10d/5.11a), John dropped Via Apia (5.7), Paul dropped a line that covered Lechery (5.8) and Debauchery (5.8), while Justin dropped another line for Roger's Roof (5.8) and Woger's Woof Wightside (5.11c).
My climbing for the day consisted of a TR of Roger's Roof, a pair of TR sessions on Plethora, a halfhearted TR attempt on Woger's Woof Wightside, a lead (retro-flash) of Via Apia, a lead of Roger's Roof, and an onsight lead of Mother Smucker's Jam (5.8). Roger's Roof was everything I remember it being, a relative breeze on TR, but heady on lead. I cannot recall if I have ever been on Via Apia before, but I must have been at some point. Plethora and Woger's Woof Wightside felt hard, and I only put a serious effort into the former. Plethora will go with a little more effort, but has a painful (at least for me) hold near the top that will limit the number of goes on any given day for a while - the bottom is a blast though. Mother Smucker's Jam gets a lot of hype in some circles, but I did not think it was that great. Most of its short stature was thin hands for me and sharp - still I was glad to manage the onsight. Roger's Roof still holds the title for having the best handjam at the lake (at least according to me). All-in-all it was a good day out at the Lake, and I think everyone had a good time.
|Mother Smucker's Jam (5.8) - OSL 04/26/14 - Photo by John Knoernschild|
And yes I am still working on a report from the Joshua Tree trip. It will hopefully be out later tonight or tomorrow morning, I am now trying to make it worth the wait!